Bearded dragon hatchlings should be fed two to three times daily. Crickets or Lobster Roaches are a good first food for the hatchlings as well as offering them greens. Size of the crickets is critical. Hatchlings should be fed 1/4 inch crickets or smaller until they gain a little size. Nymph or even a bit larger sized (3/8") Lobster Roaches makes a great feeder insect. They are softer bodied then crickets and have more meat then shell. Feeding prey that is to large (no larger then the space between their eyes is a good rule of thumb) for the hatchling may result in partial paralysis, If this occurs the animal can and usually will die. Finely chopped vegetables and fruits should be offered daily. Choose greens like, Collard Greens, Dandelion Leaves, Kale, Mustard Greens. Do not feed Romaine or Iceberg Lettuce. Crickets, Roaches, etc. should be dusted once daily with a good calcium source like Rep-Cal calcium with Vitamin D3. Also once a week food should be dusted with a good multi vitamin like Rep-Cal Herptivite.
Young hatchlings can be kept in small enclosures. A simple 20 gallon enclosures and adults should have nothing smaller then a 40 gal. breeder tank with a basking spot set at one end will do fine. Use a Spot light or heat bulb to direct heat toward the basking area. You want the surface temperature to reach about 110 degrees. We use a smooth river stone (about the size of a soft ball) for a basking spot for young dragons. The cool side of the enclosure should not exceed 85F for any length of time. The dragons will move where they are comfortable during the day. Night time temps can drop into the 60's. Please DO NOT use any heat rocks to keep your lizard warm, this is a potentially fatal situation.
Lighting:Along with a heat lamp, Bearded Dragons also need exposure to light similar to what's produced by the sun. We currently use the Reptisun 10.0 manufactured by ZOO MED. We have used these lights to raise and breed our dragons with great success. Use a bulb that extends the entire length of the enclosure, and make sure your dragon can climb to within 8"-12" from it. A good timer is recommended so that your lights come on and off at the same time every day. Of course, nothing can replace true sunlight and your lizard will benefit from any exposure to unfiltered sunlight, provided the temperature is within reason. When sunning your dragon outside, never leave your dragon unattended.
Beware, Never place a glass enclosure in direct sunlight, as the magnified heat will quickly cook your lizard
Water: Fresh water should be offered daily either in a shallow bowl or simply misting your dragon with water from a spray bottle. Many dragons will not drink from a water bowl you may have to drip the water onto your Beardies snout and let him lap it up. Either way you choose to administer their water it is something that needs to be done every day. We use a spray bottle. We will individually remove one dragon at a time and gently squirt his nose/mouth area. We have administered water this way since they were hatched and they readily accept it and always drink lots.
Substrate: This was, is, and probably always will be a hot topic amongst Bearded Dragon owners and breeders. There are a lot of choices for substrates and I think everyone agrees that wood chips, crushed shells and peat moss are out! .Many people go with bare bottom, news paper, reptile carpet, or sifted playsand. All of our Dragons live on sifted playsand and always have since hatchlings. We have never had a problem of ingestion or impactation. If you opt to use playsand we recommend thoroughly sifting it through a fine netting or strainer to remove any stones or pebbles. Any type of substrate "can" be harmful to your Dragon. The only way to bee 100% safe is to go with a bare bottom cage. This is not appealing to look at and it is very unnatural and we believe the dragons appreciate a substrate they can dig in for the evening.
House Keeping: As an owner of Bearded Dragons it is your responsibility to keep your dragon and his cage clean. This is very important in taking precaution in reducing the possibility of spreading any type of parasites. Removing feces quickly can aid in cutting down a parasite infestation that can be spread to other animals in the same cage. As well as keeping their home clean, they also require bathing. This helps them in shedding and also keeps them hydrated. Beardies will often drink while they are bathing but not only that, they will absorb water through their skin which is another benefit as well. Most Dragons love getting a bath. When giving a bath it is best to get the water to a warm temp. Nothing hotter then what you would give a human child a bath in. We try to get them temp between 95 and 100 degrees. You can purchase a soft toothbrush to gently scrub them to remove and dirt or debris. We recommend giving your dragon a bath at least once a week.
Care Sheet
Literature: A great book to go out and get is "The Bearded Dragon Manual" There is no reason not to own this book if your planning on keeping Bearded Dragons, it is strongly advised and encouraged to get yourself a copy. It has a wealth of information that can help you as you learn more about them. Also the Internet is an invaluable tool. There are many websites dedicated to lizards and specifically Bearded Dragons. The more you can learn about their diet, housing, personalities, health, and general care the better off your Bearded Dragons chance are of living a long healthy and happy life.
